Crossing the sea of Cortez and Mazatlan

After laundry, provisioning (Costco trip), and refueling we set our sights on Mazatlan. Cabo is a very busy harbor due to sport fishing. Many boats are for hire and leaving the port can be like trying to get on the freeway during rush hour in LA. Needless to say tensions were running high. Debbie and I managed to maneuver Sosiego out of the slip and past the extremely expensive yachts while moving into the fishing boat and sightseeing traffic without any untoward contact. Once out of the harbor we set our main sail and pointed the bow north for Los Frailes. A beautiful anchorage north of Cabo and in line with Mazatlan. Unfortunately the afternoon winds picked up just as we were trying to round the point and we were driven back to Cabo to anchor for the night. Our Ray Marine tiller pilot broke when we were unceremoniously tossed sideways off a short steep sea. I have a back up but there was no use pressing the issue. Back to Cabo we ran and anchored near the beach for the night. The following morning we hauled anchor and pointed the bow east for Mazatlan. The wind was fair so we set Mr. Sulu the wind vane and shapped a coarse towards the east. I love being at sea in these conditions when the boat steers herself and the wind is fair. Debbie and I alternate informal watches during the day as long as one of us is keeping a look out, napping when we can. After dinner we begin formal watch schedule for the night. We both love the last shift just before sun rise because it is truly magical.

Midway to the mainland coast we encountered what I believe to be frigate birds or young boobies. Two decided to catch a free ride on Sosiego and after several attempts landed on the end of our bow sprit and pointed the way to land. At this time the wind started to freshen and the waves steepen. Not too crazy but definitely spicy. Sosiego handles it with grace. We tucked in a second reef and rolled in some jib until she was balanced. We were making good time. As we closed the cost the wind and seas continued to freshen. I will concede that at this point my planning was less than stelar. I know that afternoon winds build along the Mexican coast and do not abate till after midnight. We headed for Stone anchorage just south of the entrance to Mazatlan and I had to hand steer due to the confused wave state. We reached the Anchorage without incident and dropped the hook in about 15 feet of water. We relaxed a moment and went to bed thinking about the tricky entrance to the marina.

In the morning we had a leisurely breakfast and we congratulated ourselves on another successful crossing of the sea of Cortez. We pulled up the anchor with our two speed manual windless and secured (catted) the anchor. We timed our passage into the narrow channel leading to the marina with a rising slack tide. Soon we were tied to the dock at Mazatlan marina our home for the next month. A fellow cruiser gave us the heads up on a conservation turtle release program that we could go participate in for a small donation. Excited we packed a bag and met them at the pick up point. Our transportation was a converted Volkswagen into an open air taxi with bench seats. When we arrived at the release sight we all filed down to the beach and the local conservation naturalist gave directions for the release. We could not touch them with our hands and were all given bowls to hold our turtle. Check out these photos and if you need more follow the link to Youtube.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ret2XYoHVhk

The fun didn’t stop there. Oh no we arrived in time to watch Carnival on the Malecon off the beach in Mazatlan. From my observation the Mexican people take their parades very seriously. Debbie and I decided to take public transit down town and view this spectacle from one of the beach side resorts. On a temporary porch built structure just above the action we were seated for the show. Food and drink were provided for a small fee. The buffet was a free for all of tasty Mexican dishes and treats. The pool was open and it was obvious we were late for the party due to traffic jams. The sheer number of participants and observers was staggering. I really don’t think any one in Mazatlan was at home. Even the Navy was cruising back and forth just off the beach.

Well this raps up this episode of Sosiego at sea. We venture inland to Guadalupe but I have no video or pictures from that trip. We again used public transit, (Bus). The luxury of the bus system in Mexico is awesome with that rivaling airline travel. Reclining seats. foot rests, AC, power for devices and in some cases on board movies. Next stop? Chacala and beyond.

Chubasco

Where do I begin? We departed Ensenada with a great weather window literally a motor boat trip due to lack of wind. Seas reported to be less than 5 feet. Sooooooo……… Let me first explain what the devil a Chubasco is. According to AI a chubasco is a Spanish word for sudden, violent rain squall with thunder and lightning, common during the rainy season in Mexico and Central America, often described as a fierce, intense downpour that arrives quickly and leaves just as fast. It can also refer to very strong winds and heavy localized storms, sometimes reaching hurricane-like intensity in northern Mexico. Normally this happens in the Sea of Cortez. Well weather is weather and the chubasco decided to visit the Pacific Ocean for a visit exactly where we were. We later receive ed reports from other boats heading south with us of recorded winds of at least 65 mph! The most wind I have ever encountered at sea. Sosiego was built to cross oceans she has convinced me of this attribute. For the first time in 20 years of Ocean sailing we deployed our storm trysail. This is a very small triangular sail of heavy canvas just for sailing during storms. The boom is lashed to the deck and the sail is independent of the main sail. Once I had deployed the trysail I lashed the tiller to leeward and went below to ride it out. The motion eased as we lay hove to but the boat still moved erratically as we fell off square sided waves. Lets just say we where still finding odds and ends that where launched across the cabin two days later. Then just as quickly as it started it stopped and we were left in a washing machine of an ocean and had to start the motor due to lack of wind. The following day we arrived in San Quintene it was calm and safe. The bay is large with room for many boats. We dodge lobster pots and found good holding in 25 feet of water outside the surf line. Time for a well deserved rest. Keep tuned as we make are way to Bahia de Tortuga next.

Ensenada to Cabo San Lucas

Hold on to your petty coats because this is one hell of a ride. Let’s start with the T.I.P. or temporary import permit to Mexico. No TIP no entrance, do not pass go do not collect 200 dollars. Well every country has their own rules and Mexico is no different. New tariffs and border issues I believe play a part in our difficulties crossing into Mexico. We pulled into Cruiseport village only to be told we probably would have to return to the states. The problem revolved around not canceling our previous expired tip prior to entering Mexico. What ? Cancel an expired document? No way! Cruise port took pity on us within what they were aloud to do but we had to leave the country, prove it with U.S. stamps for cargo ships and return to apply for a new one. Debbie was instrumental in making this happen even though rental cars, crossing the border at Tijuana, and a time limit of 2 pm was in place. We are now legal and migrating south. I have many stories to tell of kindness by the people of Baja and un-forecasted weather. Please stay tuned as sailing is never linear!

San Francisco to Santa Barbara The trip south

Well, here we are now, 10 years later with many upgrades to the boat and many miles on this body of mine. The boat is in great shape with new chain plates throughout, new rigging, and new sails for starters. Debbie and I have worked hard to make this happen and now it is finally here. What can I say, we are persisting when all avenues of progress seem closed to us. Sometimes the world throws up barricades to any path that is not perceived normal but I’m here to tell you that normal is for the faint of heart. Don’t let societal norms dictate your future. Many years ago, I became a nurse. A male nurse is not a societal norm. Neither is living and cruising on a sailboat but here we are. Welcome aboard for our latest cruise to points south and beyond. The plan? Well let’s quote a famous cruising couple that set the hook in me. Lin and Larry Pardey,” for as long as it’s fun” and,” go small go now”. 

We launched our current adventure with the 2025 Westsail rendezvous. A quick trip to Pier 39 in San Francisco Bay after both our retirements. We rented out the house and the slip at Glenn cove Marina. We made our way to Half Moon Bay without too much drama only to discover oil under the engine. We monitored the situation as we made our way to Monterey. More oil. I called our engine installer from 2006 and received some diagnostic suggestions. We delayed our departure for a day which turned out to be significant. The weather ended up being our next dilemma as we worked our way south through a mixed swell that tossed us this way and that as we progressed down the lost coast of California.  Predict Wind and the NOOA weather service predicted gale force winds and we retreated to Morro Bay only to discover more oil in the bilge. The oil came from the transmission and most likely from the input shaft. I ordered new seals and we received bad news. Debbie’s mother was not well. She had surgery recently and it seemed to be too much for her failing heart. We divided to meet this new challenge.

Debbie returned to Vacaville and stayed with dear friends Mike and Kathy as we navigated these new challenges. The boat was on a mooring which added to the complexity of fixing the leaking seals. The weather was against us as an atmospheric river set in to make things ugly. The race was on. The new seals were overnighted to me from the east coast by H&M Marine. H&M are the best marine company on the west coast. They are the local Beta Marine dealer and a cut above the rest! Debbies best friend Kathy Modin volunteered to do the notoriously bad passage around cape conception to Santa Barbara. I quickly inserted the seals, reinstalled the transmission, provisioned, and made ready for sea.

The trip around the corner ended up being slightly anti climatic except for rising water in the bilge. Yes, you read that right. After we rounded the corner at Conception, I got the bright idea to turn on the water maker. Yes you guessed it we sprang a leak and the bilge pump started cycling way too often. Easy fix for now I just turned it off. Santa Barbara was a sight for sore eyes. We tied up to the harbor patrol dock and checked in. We got Sosiego settled in her berth, Kathy returned home and I rented a car to return to Vacaville.

More fun to come as we continued to work our way south to Ensenada. Keep tuned.

Now is the time to come to the aid of our country!

I am posting the Garmin tracker link even though we are not setting sail till October 1st more or less due to weather. https://share.garmin.com/OGMMG . Keep on keeping on……

This is Elskan our boat we had prior to Sosiego. She had sailed the sea of Cortez prior to our ownership. She is a Carl Alberg design and was a great sailor (forward). Though she would not back down to save your life. Our first night at anchor was a test of our marital skills. I tried repeatedly to back her down to set the anchor with no success. Debbie insisted on trying with equal results. She was sea worthy and nimble but she had a bad tendency to leak. Not a dry boat at all. the stuffing box always leaked because the cutlass bearing was bad and strange drips from who knows where sprouted from the coach roof.

This was the love boat! (literal translation of elskan).

We found her through Latitude 38 a local sailing magazine. Her owners had been there and done that . Sent us off with a bottle of whiskey and red wine and here we are today set for the next adventure into the unknown!

Raymarine Radar Install

We have a new video on you tube about are radar installation. We bought the radar over a year ago and have not been able to find the time to install it. We used the WiFi option so I simply had to provide a power source to both items and convince them they should talk to each other. We are very pleased with the results and can’t wait to use it in a real life scenario. We will keep you all posted. Video link

With a Scanstrut

The Never Ending Deck

It was time to redo the deck. It was a mess after years of hard use. We had painted and applied non skid paint over the years but it was finally time to do it again. Crazing around the mast step had become more pronounced and stains from endless projects had become an eyesore. The project began in the fall of 2022 as a 1-2 month endeavor or so we thought. Check out the video ( https://youtu.be/HcgjlFezzA ) on YouTube. It is now spring and the rains have finally stopped and the decks are done. Next we will finally take on the radar installation after Jake’s wedding. Jake is the youngest of the flock and has come home to have his wedding here in the states. If you look far back in the archives you will find this young intrepid traveler as the youngest member of the crew. He now lives happily in China and is a teacher.

Jake and Caterina

2023-1

2023

The recap of 2022 Improvements

We have moved to a new marina under the Carquinez bridge, Glen Cove Marina. We had some trouble finding a reliable diver but now we are on a set schedule, and all is good. We also moved our home so let’s just say 2022 was a very busy year. With that said we got a lot done on the boat. New kitchen counters, double sink, pressurized water, varnished the interior, new stack pack, rebuilt raw water pump and finished the firewood box for the cubic mini wood stove. I have prepped the decks for new paint and just need the California monsoon season to end. We plan to do a lot more sailing this summer instead of projects. We have purchased  a radar and I will try to document the installation.

Cutting out pattern
zipper stops
Life long thread
Finished Product
Bright Work

More to come

As soon as I unlock the mysteries of the cloud I will post more pictures. Keep on keeping on!

YouTube Video

click herehttps://youtu.be/LdVd3Jv_7nc

Welcome Back

So much has happened since my last blog post. I think I want to begin by letting a teaser in of the up coming posts I will try to cover. I want to keep this focused on the boat and what we are doing to her to get her ready for the next chapter. The last two seasons we spent in Mexico and the Sea of Cortez where expensive in a career sort of way. We plan to retire before we take off again. My work as a NICU RN is rewarding and the hospital I work for has a great rule about maintaining seniority if hired back with in 365 days. My wife on the other hand gave up being vested and is now working on achieving that. So….. we will now wait for retirement and prep Sosiego for a multi year sail. The projects we have already competed and the ones to come will be the subjects of up coming posts.

  • New Chain Plates
  • Lower V berth
  • Interior paint and varnish
  • New rigging
  • Cubic mini wood stove
  • 2 speed manual windlass
  • Top side paint
  • Deck paint
  • Composting head
  • Sailrite stack pack
  • Etc…………..